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"They call this place the Bermuda Triangle of Transylvania," states an experienced guide, his breath producing wisps of vapor in the cold dusk atmosphere. "Countless people have disappeared here, some say there's a gateway to a different realm." Marius is guiding a traveler on a nocturnal tour through commonly known as the planet's most ghostly woodland: Hoia-Baciu, a square mile of old-growth indigenous forest on the edges of the metropolis of Cluj-Napoca.

Centuries of Mystery

Reports of unusual events here extend back a long time – the forest is called after a regional herder who is reportedly went missing in the distant past, along with his entire flock. But Hoia-Baciu gained international attention in 1968, when a defense worker called Emil Barnea photographed what he described as a UFO hovering above a round opening in the heart of the forest.

Numerous entered this place and vanished without trace. But no need to fear," he continues, facing his guest with a grin. "Our guided walks have a flawless completion rate."

In the decades since, Hoia-Baciu has drawn yoga practitioners, spiritual healers, ufologists and ghost hunters from around the globe, eager to feel the strange energies believed to resonate through the forest.

Contemporary Dangers

Although it is among the planet's leading hotspots for lovers of the paranormal, this woodland is under threat. The western districts of Cluj-Napoca – a modern tech hub of more than 400,000 people, described as the tech capital of Eastern Europe – are encroaching, and real estate firms are campaigning for authorization to cut down the woods to erect housing complexes.

Barring a few hectares home to locally rare oak varieties, the grove is without conservation status, but Marius hopes that the initiative he co-founded – a dedicated preservation group – will contribute to improving the situation, motivating the government officials to appreciate the forest's importance as a visitor destination.

Eerie Encounters

As twigs and fall foliage snap and crunch beneath their shoes, the guide recounts some of the local legends and alleged ghostly incidents here.

• One famous story recounts a little girl going missing during a family picnic, later to rematerialise after five years with no memory of the events, showing no signs of aging a single day, her attire lacking the smallest trace of soil.
• Regular stories detail cellphones and imaging devices mysteriously turning off on venturing inside.
• Reactions include full-blown dread to moments of euphoria.
• Some people report noticing bizarre skin irritations on their bodies, perceiving disembodied whispers through the forest, or experience hands grabbing them, although convinced they're by themselves.

Research Efforts

Despite several of the tales may be impossible to confirm, there are many things before my eyes that is definitely bizarre. All around are plants whose bases are warped and gnarled into bizarre configurations.

Multiple explanations have been given to clarify the misshapen plants: strong gales could have shaped the young trees, or inherently elevated radiation levels in the soil cause their crooked growth.

But scientific investigations have found no satisfactory evidence.

The Famous Clearing

The expert's excursions allow guests to participate in a little scientific inquiry of their own. When nearing the meadow in the forest where Barnea captured his well-known UFO pictures, he gives the traveler an ghost-hunting device which measures electromagnetic fields.

"We're venturing into the most energetic section of the forest," he comments. "Try to detect something."

The vegetation suddenly stop dead as the group enters into a perfect circle. The only greenery is the low vegetation beneath their shoes; it's clear that it hasn't been mown, and looks that this unusual opening is wild, not the work of people.

Fact Versus Fiction

This part of Romania is a place which stirs the imagination, where the border is unclear between truth and myth. In traditional settlements superstition remains in strigoi ("screamers") – supernatural, appearance-altering creatures, who emerge from tombs to terrorise local communities.

The novelist's well-known character Dracula is permanently linked with Transylvania, and Bran Castle – an ancient structure located on a rocky outcrop in the Carpathian Mountains – is keenly marketed as "the count's residence".

But despite folklore-rich Transylvania – actually, "the place beyond the forest" – seems tangible and comprehensible compared to these eerie woods, which appear to be, for factors nuclear, environmental or simply folkloric, a nexus for fantasy projection.

"Within this forest," Marius states, "the line between fact and fiction is remarkably blurred."