The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Around the Globe
To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the president.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on